August 31, 2014
I dreamed I saw Charles Bukowski eating carrot cake from a clear plastic clamshell at the corner bakery in Chelsea. He was drinking fresh orange juice and chatting up Carolyn Cassady. I think he was hoping to ply her with baba ganoush and get her to give up her secret recipe for garlic-parmesan kale chips. Famous Neal was nowhere to be seen but Sonny Barger was sitting at a back table with a one-eyed Bob Creeley. Ralph was eating a curry-chicken salad with dried cherries and fennel on a croissant with arugula and heirloom black krims. He was laughing with his elbow on the table and his hand poised limply over the chicken-sal croissant, and the kerchief tied around his head had faint traces of thimbleberry jam. Creeley was sucking steadily on some pink concoction, a strawberry frappe topped with whipped cream, maybe, or a huckleberry infused banana smoothie ensconced beneath a dollop of Cool Whip and garnished with tiny leaves of fresh mint. Creeley was hard for me to read, but Barger was laughing easily, and toying absent-mindedly with the house-made sweet potato kettle chips with sea salt sitting next to his sandwich.
Meanwhile behind the counter Jimmy Baldwin was dipping ice cream and barista Angela Anaïs Juana Antolina Rosa Edelmira Nin y Culmell was standing behind the La Pavani 3 BarL making making one pumpkin-spiced macchiato after another. Baldwin was trying to explain why the shop was out of pistachio almond gelato to Lester Young, encouraging him to try some fiore di latte instead. “You know I steered you true on that blood orange granita when you were in last week,” he said. Lester was not convinced. “Fiore di latte!” he exclaimed. “I don’t want no gelato made from cheese!” Anaïs was just putting her trademarked “delta of venus” froth on the macchiato, and overheard this exchange. “C’mon, Lester,” she exclaimed. “You know we only serve mozzarella di bufala campana, while mozzarella fior di latte is made from unpasteurized cow’s milk.” She was not letting on about the problems people are having getting unpasteurized fresh cheeses past the Michigan artisanal foods law. Jimmy was back in by now, too: “Nah, man! Fior di latte is just generic Italian for anything made from fresh milk!”
By this time John Arthur Johnson had come in through the old screen door that faces the corner of Main and Middle Streets. Jack is fluent in Italian, but he was not about to be drawn into this fracas. “You got panna cotta today, Jimmy?” he asked. “Sure I do. You want that with the raspberry coulis?” asks Baldwin. But this gets Bukowski’s attention. “Raspberry coulis?” he shouts. “Why didn’t you ask me if I wanted raspberry coulis with my carrot cake?” I’m wondering if a poet looped on cream-cheese icing and fresh orange juice can maintain a sugar-high that’s strong enough for him to take on the Galveston Giant over some thickened Rubus idaeus. I mean, Bukowski was known as a brawler, but that was back in the day, well before alienated aesthetes began to appreciate the virtues of organic tomatillos and were still drinking whiskey, smoking pot and shooting heroin. That was when the real punks in the world were out riding Vincent Black Shadows up and down CA Route 25, not sipping rooibos chai from a Dart cup as they steered their hybrids down MI 52 outside of Pinckney.
Wake up and smell the pumpkin spice macchiato, say I.
Paul B. Thompson holds the W.K. Kellogg Chair in Agricultural, Food and Community Ethics at Michigan State University